The RAYA Collection started looking at my thesis collection inspired by sailing, the Mediterranean Sea and its culture. My first idea was to create a continuation of that story but in this case for Fall/Winter. When pulling new inspiration I started to see images of beach huts with snow, lighthouses immerse in dense fogs and empty beaches. Those pictures not only gave me a first idea of the mood but also made me look at the beach in a different way where especially the beach huts became the protagonists. I was very inspired by their construction with the wood creating stripes. At this point I thought that this collection should be different that the previous ones and that could be possible only by avoiding embroidery and focusing only in stripes. 


What first started as a continuation of a nautical collection evolved into a deep exploration of the idea of stripes. This made me look at stripes in the natural world (the sea) but also how stripes where used in fashion (usually in a very graphic way). Starting with more simple composition of stripes the idea was to give them more complexity by modifying the direction and also the thickness. This is when I started looking at marbling which to me was a great reflection of the idea of a complex stripe. I also started to collage striped pictures to create other complex compositions and this was the point where I started sketching.


For this collection I wanted to concentrate a lot on sketching and try different systems to create a collection by only drawing on paper. The first stage was very automatic but when those first sketches were collaged I was able to start looking at different layers of clothing. Those layers were all printed in stripes and that’s why I kept introducing knit ideas. Knit fabrics allowed me not only to create stripe patterns but also modify the construction from simple stripes to more complex configurations.
Besides knits I also wanted to include the use of fur since was something pretty new to me. The challenge here was to apply this fur on the different layers to create a cohesive collection. The last stage of the collection after lots of sketches was to market the different pieces and style them into looks.

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Inspiration Collages - click to enlarge

Process

After looking at stripes in fashion and nature I decided to use collage to add more complexity to my idea. This also happened with the sketches. While the first round was automatic and just translating the stripes seen into the human body, the second part was cutting those first sketches and combining them to create a new stripe language. The result was a new series of sketches that took me really out of my comfort zone. The next step was to look closely at those collages and determine the construction of each garment keeping always in mind that stripes where ruling the collection. 

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Handknitted Samples

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Collection Line-Up

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